Bodice Autumn/Winter 2015

Androgyny, minimal chic and a self-assuring temperament as always were the fundamental and formative parameters for the Bodice A/W 2015 collection by this year’s Vogue Fashion Fund winner Ruchika Sachdeva. Signature relaxed silhouettes (culottes, shirt dresses-), subdued palettes of brown, cream-white plus indigo blue and ingenuity in fabric took the centre stage pertaining to the same. The extra layer however was the introduction of patterns i.e. polka dots but not your run-of-the-mill polka dots. It was part of the recurring ingenuous approach Ruchika has applied throughout. This time the experimentation was with batik and indigo dyeing. The polka dots were done by hand using wax and then dyed. The use of khadi and handloom was characteristic.

There is plenty to delve into if you look closely but at the surface it all might seem the same. The latter is what forms the opposing argument. There is no doubting the reinvention and intricacy in development but for some who give the clothes a once-over it might not sail. The DNA of the label albeit is strongly defined and constantly evolving with strong and discerning patrons who would inspect and appreciate the extreme detail. How well does the label break viable commercial ground in the long run will ascertain gradually.

Images via vogue.in

Rajesh Pratap Singh Autumn/Winter 2015

It was the opening show slot for Rajesh Pratap Singh for his Autumn/Winter 2015 presentation. And did he put up a show!? The high on drama and gimmick factor was consistent through and through. The erratic transition of the models walking down the runway from a nonchalant signature tread to shuddering screams, the pounding rock and the models with mask laden faces inspecting the drop of the IV bags set next to hospital beds set the theme loud and clear- a shout out to the medical workers and industry. First off, kudos to the designer for making a profound effort that lent a credible effect to the story albeit a diffusion of the international runway culture.  But what justified this so called effort & credibility in the indigenous context was the equally impressive clothes. Wool and leather hand sewn with the surgical ‘suture’ seams, fabrics derived from structured wool weaves, Ikat checks and stripes in merino were the techniques that backed up the whole story. The dripping red- of the otherwise completely monochrome collection- morphed into polka dots and back-detailing on the nursing inspired dress and coat silhouettes. The 50’s manifested in sheaths and pleated skirts, all of it made in fabrics coated with gum. The gimmick that would otherwise not have extended beyond its literal meaning for the discerning eye was fool-proofed by what came about- more so in the second half- in the form of ingenuity superimposed on the clothes.

Images via vogue.in